Wednesday 29th December 2010

Though I knew they would be a disappointment, I was none-the-less excited at the prospect of seeing the pyramids at Giza – something that is on most people’s “Things To Do Before I Die” list. Seif abandoned me at the Novotel where guests at his friend’s wedding were staying, and with whom I would spend the day. Two mini busses had been hired as transport, and we eventually got underway.

The rain gods were clearly enjoying themselves, as we experienced one of Cairo’s rare instances of precipitation. It was a light shower, and only lasted a short time, but was enough to force half the city’s workforce to return home (rain here is greeted in a similar way to that in which London greets light snow).

The approach to the pyramids is through a rather poor part of town, and the pyramids themselves can be glimpsed all-too-briefly between the tatty buildings and myriad vehicles. Eventually, though, they come into full view and dominate the skyline. Tickets bought, we went in through the gates and marvelled at the miracle of construction that put them there. At least we would have done, had we not been stalked by numerous persistent and crafty salesmen – who didn’t take no for an answer – attempting to part us with our cash in exchange for camel rides, souvenirs, postcards, tat and donkey rides.

• The Great Pyramid at Giza
• Endless stone forming a pyramid at Giza
• The view out of one of the pyramids at Giza. Note how close the city is.
• Police Camels!
• The Sphinx guards a pyramid
• Entrance to the smaller of the pyramids at Giza. Doesn' look particularly authentic!

If my trip to Ephesus last year left me disappointed at how poorly the site had been presented, the pyramids were an order of magnitude worse. There was no explanatory material, restoration was unsympathetic, busses spat fumes in all directions, and the salesmen became quite tiresome. However, not to be deterred, I explored the interior of Menkaure’s Pyramid, the smaller of the three. It was cramped, small and hot, and as a result I could not get out of my mind the sense of desperation that the (live) slaves and families of the pharaoh must have felt as the pyramid was sealed around them and they suffocated to death. This thought was interrupted frequently, however, by the intrusion of the preceding visitor’s bottom in my face at regular intervals. The whole experience lasted no more than five minutes.

• Standing in front of the great pyramid at Giza
• Camel ride, sir? Only 200 pounds, special for you!
• The Sphinx at Giza

I split off from the group to acquire camera batteries, food and water. One trader attempted to sell me four AA batteries for LE 300 (£30)! I haggled him down to LE 30 (still unreasonably expensive for Egypt). Whilst still alone I explored the Sphinx, an altogether more interesting affair, with better photographs to be had. I re-joined the group (which wasn’t easy as they were nowhere to be seen) and eventually left for the comfort of the Mena Hotel where I sipped G&T with a fine view of a pyramid through the window. In the words of the famous Eccles, “This is living!”

• The Mena House Hotel
• Sipping a Gin & Tonic in the bar overlooking the pyramids in the Mena House Hotel (there is a pyramid outside that window – honestly!)
• The stables for horses and camels near the pyramids at Giza

Returning to central Cairo, I was alone in the bustling city for the first time, and an attempt was made to locate a taxi near the Novotel. There are two things that should be known about taxis in Cairo: white cabs have metres, black cabs don’t; and it is advised to avoid hailing a taxi near hotels and other attractions as they will do their utmost to extort tourists. I therefore felt quite pleased with myself for refusing the taxi waiting outside the hotel and hunting for one myself. But this satisfaction was short-lived. Forty minutes later, and having walked about half of the way back to Seif’s house, I eventually found an unoccupied taxi that was prepared to accept a fare – but it wasn’t quite that simple. I should have become suspicious when he quoted a price of EL 20 (£2) before setting out – it transpires that this is quite expensive – and refusing to put on the metre. But I was just relieved to be in a taxi after so long hunting for one. He took a few wrong turns (though didn’t take me far off the correct route) and asked policemen and hotel concierge for directions on numerous occasions. Eventually we arrived and he demanded EL 30 (£3), which I was in no mood to argue with. Apparently I should have paid no more than EL 7 (70p).

By now it was 7pm and barely a scrap of food had touched my stomach since breakfast, so I grabbed a bite to eat at Seif’s house and deliberated over whether to spend another evening in the delightful company of Dalia or attend yet another party with Seif; in the end I plumped for the latter as it required far less organisation on my part. It was a nice occasion – drinks and a light meal – in the apartment of a French land-lady and with the company of Seif, Ola, and Sarah who had just arrived from Boston and had never met any of us. A convivial evening ensued. I had survived my first solo experience in Cairo.

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Cairo Diary: Citadel
Tuesday 28th December 2010

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Cairo Diary: Coptic Cairo
Thursday 30th December 2010