Monday 27th December 2010

After a lazy morning (with falafel for breakfast), Ahmad picked us up and we travelled to three mosques close to the citadel. The first was the Mosque of Ahmad Ibn Ţūlūn, the largest Mosque in Cairo and the oldest surviving in its original form. It was built to accommodate the entire population of the city in the ninth century. Much of the original decoration had been purloined by Victorian explorers, but some of its beautiful carvings remain, especially in the vaults of the arches.

• The Mosque of Ahmad Ibn Ţūlūn
• The Mosque of Ahmad Ibn Ţūlūn
• The Mosque of Ahmad Ibn Ţūlūn as seen from the Citadel

The other two mosques were located a short drive away and were in much better condition. The Madrassa of Sultan Hassan is a twelfth century construction consisting of a central open-air courtyard surrounded by a huge vaulted area on each side. In the corners, between each vault, were rooms that would have been home to students and hospitals and other monastic-like functions. The sultan who commissioned the mosque died during its construction, so much of the decoration remains incomplete, but this gives a sense of how the structure would have evolved.

Adjacent to the Madrassa is the Royal (or Al-Rifa’i) Mosque, built in the nineteenth century and home to a Muslim saint in addition to several latter members of the royal family. The decoration was far superior to its neighbour, and had elements similar to those of baroque churches. Parts of the ceiling were reminiscent of the colouring of churches in England, not least Carlisle Cathedral, and some of the windows were subtly cruciform (due to a sneaky European architect). One of the rooms, containing the tomb of the Iranian ruler who was overthrown by the current powers, was clad in the most gorgeous sea-green marble.

• The Al-Rifa’i Mosque and The Madrassa of Sultan Hassan, as seen from the citadel
• The Al-Rifa’i Mosque
• The Madrassa of Sultan Hassan

A short drive through the chaotic back streets brought us to a museum housing an exhibition of Coptic Christian art. There were many fine artefacts, and it was nice to spend some time looking at something other than architecture (though the museum did have a beautiful – and surprisingly peaceful – courtyard). But time was plodding on, and I was getting rather peckish. It was already mid-afternoon, and uncertainty started to set in about when lunch was going to be taken. Whilst Seif assured me that we would eat soon, I nonetheless snaffled a quick chocolate bar to keep me going (never have I been so pleased to see the name “Cadbury”) in the hope that my next meal would be imminent.

But my optimism was stifled when, in the car (stuck in the rush-hour traffic), Seif explained that lunch in Egypt tends to be taken late in the afternoon, often between four and six. This was not good news. However, once we arrived at his father Mamdouh’s house at 5pm, the fine spread awaiting us for “lunch” was magnificent. I have experienced his culinary skills in England so knew that it would be tasty, but the quantity and variety of dishes surpassed the expectations even of my rabid hunger.

After a brief respite at Seif’s house, we departed for dinner party number two, though due to heavy traffic it was 10pm by we arrived. The residence was that of a professor and furniture manufacturer in a gated community. Being a professor of fine Egyptian Art, the house was very tastefully appointed with beautiful carvings and ancient artefacts. The dining room was overlooked by ornate gallery screens, the type seen in mosques to hide women.

I was tired, but enjoyed the party, especially as the food was so good (again!). Conversation slipped between Arabic and English so it was difficult to follow, but I was just happy to sit and drift off. Arriving home at 1am, I slumped into bed and fell fast asleep.

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Cairo Diary: First Impressions and New Friends
Sunday 26th December 2010

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Cairo Diary: Citadel
Tuesday 28th December 2010